Thread started by Smogloyna
Mark Sherwoodadded a new photoalbum.
26 images
That's a small NAAFI Van, or is just far away? No sir, your binoculars are the wrong way !
1:35
45 18 July, 18:07
Mark Sherwood AuthorCheers Gary for the like and compliment. I've got this on hold at the moment. It seemed to suck the enthusiasm for the build out of me. Unusual for Tamiya.
1 7 October, 12:01
Mark Sherwood AuthorLebloge and Ben M thank you both for the compliments, Ben M for the like too. I think I've worked out what the problem was. . . . Me, I was a bit miffed with the way the colour turned out and I omitted parts in the initial build too, my fault entirely. I may return to it , to misquote MacArthur. 🤘🥸🤟
10 October, 08:00
Ben MThis one is definitely worth finishing when you feel up to it. There were a zillion variations of "olive drab" so nothing you do can be wrong.
1 10 October, 17:21
Gary CurlingHave some photos of bovington tank museum with colour photos on my page,if that helps out.
1 11 October, 11:03
Mark Sherwood AuthorCheers Gorby, thanks Gary but I sort of half heartedly (more morosely?!?!) continued with the weathering I am firmly laying the blame on XF-89. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . And me. 🤘🥸🤟
1 11 October, 18:15
Mark Sherwood AuthorHi Ben M. True loads of variations to Olive drab and you can't be wrong too. I just can't put my finger on why I don't have the same enthusiasm I usually have for Tamiya. I finished the crew, dry fitted as per instructions they don't fit, the commander looks like he's falling into the fighting compartment, the loader looks like he has no neck as he's hunched over the breech and the gunner has nothing to stand on so he's clinging for dear life by his left elbow. Oh and various small delicate stuff has snapped off. Let's see how the stowage goes, you never know thing's might pick up 🙄🤘🤣🤟🥸
2 20 October, 12:49
Jakko > There were a zillion variations of "olive drab" so nothing you do can be wrong.
Yes, it can. A great many modellers make the mistake of thinking olive drab is the same as olive green, for example, and from there go on to using a generic "army green". American olive drab was more a greenish brown than a brownish green, especially as it aged. OTOH, British olive drab started out as much the same colour (though not exactly) but aged to turn more green rather than more brown. Yes, there was some variation in official colours, but it's very much a mistake to think that anything goes.
IMHO, the best way to get realistic colours for a model is to start by figuring out what the specified colour would have been at the factory, and/or for any unit repaints. From there, you can vary them based on your idea of how the colour might have changed due to aging, weathering, repaints etc. This will get you a much more realistic finish than trying to paint all models in the officially specified colours, but also than painting them in just whatever colour other people say is a good one 🙂
An additional problem for a 17-pounder M10 (incidentally, "Achilles" was a Ministry of Supply designation that the British Army pretty much refused to acknowledge) is: was the whole vehicle overpainted in British OD, or only the parts that were changed when the 17-pounder gun was fitted?
3 24 October, 10:25
Mark Sherwood AuthorJakko. It wasn't just the colour, it was the build in general as it progressed a malaise just took hold and I lost all enthusiasm for it. To be honest, I don't fret over colour's. As long as I produce a reasonable facsimile of the subject then I am happy, if anyone else likes it fair play. These incidents, you can hit the buffer's and lose momentum and never come back to the hobby, because you think why bother. Thankfully I soldiered through and received a boost along the way. Anyway, thank you for taking time out to comment and happy modelling. 🤟🥸🤘🙂👍
2 24 October, 18:53
Major OakLooking great mate your figures are top class i know what you mean about getting the colour right but different light shades does it matter and I agree some times your mojo goes like i have with a couple of dios I've lost the go for but I've just gone back to my teens and knocked a quick kit up stay in the game your work is outstanding mate
1 24 October, 19:21
Mark Sherwood AuthorThanks Major Oak. The figures, maybe not as good as Neuling 😉😅 and if I go back to my teens' it would be, Bikes, Beer, Music, Wimmin ' Beer and Beer and the occasional "AARGFHHH! Why did you turn right?" As I slide down the road sans bike. Yeh, know what you mean, funnily enough I've two Tamiya kits on the go as a hey get back into it. Considering the ennui the other Tamiya kit engendered. Don't you sell yourself short your builds are outstanding too. 🤘🥸🤟🥸🖖
1 24 October, 22:44
Mark Sherwood AuthorThank you Gorby and Lebloge 👍 Thank you too Nick for the like. 🖖🥸🤟
30 October, 19:25
Mark Sherwood AuthorMr James, thank you. I ain't finished yet 🤣 Rui D thanks for the like 🤟🥸🖖
31 October, 07:47
Mark Sherwood AuthorThank J35J for the compliment, I think that's all that me and Nerg, nailed (I'm rereading my Ogri collection at the moment) my next armour build will be slightly better 🙄 I hope 😅 🤘🥸🤟 🙂
8 November, 16:11
Mark Sherwood AuthorMajor Oak, CaptGPF. Cheers Mates for the compliments much appreciated. All the colours where Vallejo and Windsor and Newton Oils for the fixtures and figures (deep breath) Vallejo: Black/Grey, Saddle Brown, Red Leather, Ferrari Red, Cold White, Aluminium, Brass, US Olive Drab, Khaki, Dark Yellow, Basic Skin Tone, Medium Flesh Tone and Game Colour Electric Blue. Either toned down or up with the Cold White or a lighter hue of the samish' colour, i.e. Dark Yellow toned down with Saddle Brown for shadow, white for highlights. But I usually base the face(sounds like a faux reggae band) hands with blue and red. All using glaze's and building up layers and then maybe dry brushing oils if appropriate. Windsor and Newton Oils: Lamp Black, Burnt Sienna, Cadmium Lemon Hue, Phthalo Blue, Naples Yellow Hue, Raw Umber, Paynes Grey and Flake White Hue. For Oil dotting, washes and dry brushing. The colours for the Achilles are. AKRC: Dark Earth, Off White, Dull Dark Green. Tamiya: XF69, XF52, XF55. XF69 and Dull Dark Green for the Achilles the other colours for dust and dirt effects. Also chucked on some Flory washes too. Grime, Sand and Brown. 🤟🥸🤘 You did ask Major Oak 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍
9 November, 07:52
NeulingGreetings to the tank commander .... form the ministry of silly looks 🙂 Very good work in every aspect with well painted and placed figures! 👍
1 9 November, 09:30
Mark Sherwood AuthorNeuling 🤣he does look rather bemused with a stretched neck 😅 note the side eye because he thinks the Erk' is taking the Michael. Thank you for the compliment, coming from your Good Self very much appreciated. 👍🥸🤘And now for Something Completely Different, It's. . . . . . . . . Cue music. 🤘🥸👍😁🤟
9 November, 09:36
CaptGPFI've heard of people basing the flesh with purple and then building up from that - interesting how you do the same thing! Thanks for the tips, Mark!
1 9 November, 22:02
Mark Sherwood AuthorNo problem CaptGPF. Incidentally, the Old Masters used to use white and shades of green mixed together to paint skulls and then add flesh tones over this to get a realistic effect, which I used to do. But then I realised I wasn't an Old Master and before anyone nail's the obvious punch line. More like an Old Fart. B'bum, Tish! 🤟🥸🤘
10 November, 19:55
Mark Sherwood AuthorThank you Dave for the like and everyone else who liked too. 🤘🥸🤟
10 November, 19:55
Mark Sherwood AuthorThank you Gorby for the compliment from a Master of Miniatures as yourself much appreciated. 👍🥸🤘
1 19 November, 08:06