Clair Greenwood
At 55 years old here it's really hard to stand on my head, if you go into advanced settings you can turn your photo's to face correctly. I know because I have to fix all of mine too. Have fun with the photo etch, thats actually my favorite part of building a model. You'll need a folding jig to do really nice bends, and for glue I've used and had great results with Clear Nail Polish, Microscale's Micro Kristal Klear, Mig Ultra Glue, and of course super glue. For positioning I do a 2 step process when my pe part is ready to install, first a tiny dab of Microscale's Micro Liquitape and let it dry a few minutes till it turns clear. It in now sticky like a very light adhesive and can be placed and manipulated into just the right position, then a dab of your choice of glue. If you go with any brand super glue and it's the thin kind I highly recommend a Glue Looper set, very cheap and will last forever. Clean up old glue on the tip with a cigarette lighter. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your build 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I've done a terrible job with my first ever part.
Glue looper? Why have I never heard of these things? lol we are practically twins. Well, I'm 56. With the modelling skills of a 5 year old 😳😂

Danny Ray Author
@lorraine are there actual female modellers? Clair is that a male name where you live? Surely there aren't 2 female modellers on earth? I'm showing my 1970's attitude here. 😳😂
By the way Lorraine cute cat. I have a dog but he's scared of cats. In fact he's even scared of doors! lol

Lorraine Lin
Danny, female modelers are relatively fewer in China, especially military modelers. But we do exist😜 And I also see many females in this community.

[img1]

Clair Greenwood
Thats ok Danny, Im 55 and act about 5 lol. I get along with my 3 year old grand daughter on the same level 🙂 Clair is a dude unless there's an e on the end usually. I have 2 cats, the one is super skittish, I remember when he was a kitten he farted, it scared him n he ran a good 15 feet before turning around to look at his butt. Hahaha

Clair Greenwood
Oh and to get that paper off use some nail polish remover. It dissolves super glue pretty quick. Then touch it up.

Rui D
Great conversation going on here!

I have to catchup:

1st - I'm in the same age bracket at 59 with the modelling ability of a 90 year old who can't find his glasses 🙂

2nd - whats this I here about using a lighter to cleanup the tip on glue! How does that work? Is it for super glue cleanup? I'm always dealing with nasty clogs.

3rd - Where I live in Canada we have very few female modellers. In fact, I have never seen one. I have a theory that females can be amazing modellers because of small fingers. I don't have fat sausage fingers but they are big enough to get in the way of intricate work.

4th - @Danny I know another modeller on here named Jennifer. She is relative new to the hobby and already quite good. Lorraine's work is amazing!

Lastly - I have cats. I use to have dogs when I was younger, but now it's cats. They drive me crazy and I think the little assassins are trying to kill me, but I love them to bits.

Danny Ray Author
I love this site. So much good advice and just when I felt like giving up I get lots of lovely people encouraging me to carry on. Thank you. I also need to give a shout out to Jakko. I drive him crazy with almost daily questions and he's never once told me to stop and leave him alone! 🙂

@Rui, I'd love to see a few more females in the hobby. In fact I need a new wife and one who could help me build a model would be a definite bonus. It's all about the lack of sausage fingers, as you say 😂

Lorraine Lin
For PE parts, I use lighter to clean up the instant glue. It works very well, 100% burned up.

And sometimes, I wish I had a third hand, help me to hold the small parts so I can glue them together😛

Thomas Mayer
Remove superglue from a glue looper, a needle, blade, or whatever metal item you use, by holding it into the flame of a lighter. Let the tool cool of, remove residue with a paper towel.

Thomas Mayer
Glue loopers:
SCM Search: Glue applicators looper*

Danny Ray Author
Thanks Thomas.
@lorraine a third hand would be invaluable! In fact on a serious note are there items you can get to help with that? I often find myself wishing I had something to place a model in when I need to add a tricky part. I bought a small jewellers vice that I sometimes use but if there are other devices I'd love to try one!

Lorraine Lin
I bought a soldering helping hands in electronics store. It helps sometimes.

Danny Ray Author
I think I'll get one too Lorraine. By the way I'm seriously impressed at your skill. Are you a professional model maker? Or something similar? Film business?

Robert H.
I have the same kit on my workbench right now, take care the instructions have a few errors and some missing steps to do, just in case you haven't noticed

Lorraine Lin
Danny, I'm not a professional modeler. Building
models is just a hobby in my spare time. I've learned a lot of skills in this community.

Clair Greenwood
I have 3 or 4 helping hands of different sizes but this one is on my "snag it eventually" list : amazon.com/gp/produc..8B8CMKBF3NX&th=1 , should prove handy when I am repairing electronics as well.

Danny Ray Author
@Robert yeah I've noticed one error so far. I bet yours comes out a lot better than mine!

Danny Ray Author
@Clair, thanks I'll look at that. I think I'll buy one! 🙂

Danny Ray Author
@lorraine how long have you been modelling? You really are skilled. I'm very new to it but I think it'd take me at least a decade to get to your level!

Robert H.
@Danny, t's not about better, it's just about fun !! and you learn and get better with every model you build - may you've noticed that K3 and K4 track parts the designations are swapped, some drill holes that need to be made are not shown, best you download the instructions of the original Academy kit, last page shows some corretions .... scalemates.com/products/img/5/1/1/839511-44-instructions.pdf

Clair Greenwood
Well said Robert, without having a fun time we'd all be doing something else instead.

Lorraine Lin
@Danny, about 6-7 years. Agree with Robert and Clair, it's all about having a fun time. I enjoy those few hours late at night when I build models. I can fully immerse myself and forget about other worries. And I also enjoy to learn and to share with all the friendly mates here.

Danny Ray Author
I agree but I'm at the stage where I'm messing everything up. I think it'll be a lot more fun when I get a bit better and I have a system for doing things. I mostly make (so far. I have 61 kits and about 2/3rds are AFV) tanks. Can't decide whether it's better to spray the wheels and tracks before adding them or once they're glued in place. I'm veering towards the 'before' scenario. Same with the tools and things like machine guns and rifles (from my universal carrier). I don't feel confident at all with figures. In fact I'd even say they scare me. 😳😂

Robert H.
@Danny, take it easy, may start with your more simple kits, to mess something up sometimes is part of the never ending learning process and fortunely on armour models you can easy hide a mistake by covering it with something, at least mostly 😉 I airbrush the assembled main groups, hull, turret, wheels, tracks... separately. I also glue small things like tools before airbrushing to the hull, I've no problem to paint small things with a fine brush after... just look always what makes more sense. Figure painting is also not such a big deal, many tuturial on YT, start with simple guides.... and don't try to paint eyes, mostly not necessary at all 😮

Clair Greenwood
Danny bro,. you didn't mess anything up... Thats the beauty of modelling war machines, Battle Damage 🙂 I've been building models on and off since '74 and I still make colossal goofs here and there. I was doing a Santa Maria all wood kit and guess what, I goofed and cut off in scale probably about 10 feet on the poop deck. I just planked and kept going, now it's a pee deck that bring your own bottle Hahahaha. We all screw up dont fret just learn and do better on the next one buddy 🙂 As for painting, I always paint parts separately, my hands shake a good bit anymore so I'd make one hell of a mess if I didnt.

Danny Ray Author
Thanks chaps. Great advice. That made me laugh clair. Pee deck and bring your own bottle. 😂
I actually thought this yesterday. Why am I worrying about a rip in a wire mesh on a machine that's had dozens of armour piercing shells slung its way? Of course it's gonna look beaten up! That's a sure sign that I've not (yet) done any weathering whatsoever! 🙂

And Robert I agree. It's a good job I've (now) got 62 kits (just bought another panzer iv by Ryefield oh and a hetzer by Takom so 63 kits! (They were so cheap on temu. The Ryefield was just £11! Well with my discount.
I have now stopped buying. For now 🙂

Danny Ray Author
@lorraine. I hope I'm half as good as you in 6 years!

Lorraine Lin
Danny You surely can do better. Because I just joined this community last year, while you've been here since the very beginning😜

Danny Ray Author
Not me Lorraine. I only joined in November. Or thereabouts 🙂
You did say you've been model building for about 6 years? I might have mixed up your comment with someone else. It's my age! Lol

Danny Ray Author
Can somebody take away my credit card please? I just saw a Takom 1:35 panzer III Ausf.M mit schurzen (armour skirts) on Temu and it was only £15. God knows where I'm gonna put these models once they're built? I'll need at least 3 more houses. Maybe I can build a few model blocks of flats? 😂

While I'm here, do any of you use those PE bending tools to help you? Some are like metal rulers with lots of different shapes to bend around. Another type is a square with another square with shapes cut out and there's a screw down clamp to securely fix the part down when bending. I can get one of each type for around £7 with my current discount . Are they worthwhile or just a gimmick?

On a similar note, I wish I could find a solution to my many different diameter circle masks. Being primarily interested in AFV builds, I find I need (especially if the road wheels are rubber edged and therefore painted in black(ish), I know you can buy specific wheel masks for many kits but they're not cheap. I was wondering if there's a good universal solution. A tool or technique where you can make your own masks or stencils. Bearing in mind, I have the abilities of a not particularly bright or gifted toddler 😂😂😂

Clair Greenwood
I use a Bug from the Small Shop and it's simply a must have to get great folds on the first try. Each bend at the same spot makes brass weaker. So yes, definitely get a screw down type.

As for question 2 >>> Tadah!!!!! scalehobbyist.com/ca..00000048/product.php

I bought one, seems nice quality but haven't needed to actually use it yet.

Danny Ray Author
Thanks Clair. You the man. As they say. Funny to think I thought you might've been the (wo)man before you educated me about the different spellings of your name! 🙂 then again (I'm assuming here yet again) you Americans do love to change the spelling of the mother tongue! lol 😂😂😂😁😁
But seriously, thanks for the reply and advice. It does make it feel like I'm not in this arms race against 1940's nazism alone. Even though I'm building German tanks 😁😊
You've convinced me. I'm gonna buy a screw down clamp thing. I mean, for equivalent of ten US dollars, you can't really go wrong?

Danny Ray Author
I wonder if that stencil you linked would cover the British tanks too? I see that panzer iv is mentioned. I have all the British tanks to build. Churchill, Cromwell, valentine, crusader, Matilda as well as the Brit versions of American tanks like Grants, Lees, Stuart's, and shermans ? I guess it'd be expecting a bit too much to have a single stencil to cover all German, American and Brit machines? 🙂

Robert H.
@Danny, I have this USTAR UA-80026, covers all wheel diameters, at least I didn't have one where it didn't fit in scale 1/35. For bending PE parts just a small tool which is usually sufficient for what I need it [img1] [img2]

Danny Ray Author
Thanks Robert. I've just bought something similar on temu and a square one that you can screw down. Because I've been buying a lot of kits from them I had some discount. The screw down type was originally £20. I got it for £6. Hopefully it'll be decent quality. I'll have a look at the wheel mask. As well as the one Clair suggested. Thanks to you both.

Ben M
Helpful tips abound here. Sorry I missed it til now. Photo 5 looks nicely done. I apply superglue with a sewing needle with the end of the eye cut off like a tiny little U. When it gets gummed up I burn the glue off with a lighter. In my late 50's as well.

My girlfriend builds models as well but isn't on scalemates. I like to build things with my kids also.

Clair Greenwood
Gee Ben, that's a really smart idea there with the needle. I like the ingenuity bud 🙂

Danny Ray Author
Hi Ben. I forgot that I bought this little tool from Temu. It's a very fine needle on a small spring and it unscrews from the handle where it's safely stored away. Basically you just dip it in the super glue then dot it where you want it. When it first arrived a couple of months ago I was disappointed but it really has helped. Though I obviously had to remember I had it first! lol
So your whole family model build? That's great 🙂

Danny Ray Author
@clair shall I post a link to the needle tool I bought? It's just a small bullet looking piece of metal that unscrews then you screw it in the other end. It's just a really fine needle on a small limited movement spring like joint. A lot more handy than I first thought! Bear with me I'm not good with computers/phones. I've added a picture of the tool in the project/build photos. See it? They sell them on Amazon too but it was half that price on temu.

Clair Greenwood
Actually Danny yeah I'll grab me a few next week when I get my ssi in.Thanks man I'd like to give that a shot, looks very useful.

Danny Ray Author
You're very welcome amigo

Danny Ray Author
I'm embarrassed to post any more pics of the build. It looks like an explosion in a Humbrol liquid poly and Tamiya extra thin plant as an Airfix lorry carrying T34-85 112 Factory production 1:35 kits was passing….😳

Don't think I'm ever gonna get a call from Industrial Light and Magic with a job offer. 😂

Clair Greenwood
Naw buddy, Im sure it's nothing some putty wont take care of, nothing else use tarps and mud to cover bad spots. Perhaps it's a battle damaged 34 getting hauled back for repairs... 🙂

Jakko ‌
Everybody started somewhere, and nobody built award-winning models when they were just starting out.

Also, you'll be amazed what a coat of paint while hide, never mind the suggestions above 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I think it's because I'm thinking I can put every part in place then use extra thin. I used to apply glue BEFORE placing the part as a kid. Do you glue before for some parts and only glue while in place if you can do that from the unseen side as it were? Like inside a tank for example and the part being on the outside. Also Like the seams of the hull for example?

I am still enjoying building but I seem to be very slow. I just cut a few parts from the tree, sand them down then add a few then stop. I rarely sit for hours at a time. Just half hour here and there while tv is on. 🙂

These 65 kits (yes 65 now but definitely stopped buying. For now 😂 ) are gonna take a loooooong time! 😳😂😂😂

Danny Ray Author
One more quick question. After handling the model for weeks, it's obviously covered in grease from your hands, do you wash the model before spraying? Like wipe with a little soapy water? It's gotta help the painting, no?

Jakko ‌
I glue some parts by putting glue on first, others by putting the part in place and then flowing glue into the seam. It largely depends on whether I think it will stay put ot not without glue 🙂

As for washing it: if the first coat is going to be paint that is alcohol-based, a lacquer, an enamel, or anything else with a solvent in it stronger than water, there's almost certainly no need to wash off grease etc. Which is to say: I can't remember ever doing it, and the only paints that have given me trouble on bare plastic have been water-based acrylics, especially airbrush-ready ones.

Clair Greenwood
Like Jakko, it just depends for me on the particular part and how it positions before I even decide which glue to use.

For the wash I absolutely give a nice warm bath with Dawn dish soap to my parts before painting, Im a sweat hog so my hands get all kinds of sweat on the parts, probably a bit of tobacco breath too so they get a nice wash n dry, then paint away with usually acrylics.

Danny Ray Author
To be honest Jakko, I only have acrylic paints, even the primers I have are acrylic so I'll probably do the same as Clair and give this one a bath. I didn't with my first 1:35 build a Tamiya Panther (I should add some pics but it's awaiting its 2nd coat of gelbraun and the olivgrun and rotbrun too) and it looked like it might've struggled to stick in a couple of small areas due to what was probably greasy fingers. I did buy some latex finger glove things. But they'll take about an hour to put on! Each finger. 😳😂

Jakko ‌
It can't hurt to wash the model, certainly. Well, as long as you're careful not to break any bits off, anyway 😉

Danny Ray Author
Well, there is that of course Jakko. Knowing me, it'll probably end up just adding more glue to the surface somehow. I'll use the wrong toothbrush. One loaded with poly instead of fairy liquid. 😳😂

Jakko ‌
If you apply glue with a toothbrush then I think we've just located the problem 😉

Danny Ray Author
Hahaha. Actually, I use a toilet cleaner brush. I find toothbrushes don't allow quite enough poly to get on 🙂.
Can I ask you an unrelated question? I know I have literally asked your advice on hundreds of occasions (no exaggeration. You have the patience of a modelling saint). I know I said I was gonna stop buying kits but there are 3 vehicles I love (one was one I discovered reading the book you wrote Tanks at Westkapelle) the LVT-A4 (is that the one with the cannon on top and MG at the back? That one. And 2 aircraft. The A10 Warthog and the P38 Lightning.
I know you did tell me before but it'd take ages trawling thru your previous replies. Do you know a decent kit of any of them but in particular the LVT? I really want one. Watched 2 documentaries last night. One called Hell in the Pacific and it had LVTs as they landed on Guadalcanal.
The other documentary I watched was set in your local area (or relatively close by). Isleer or Ismeer lake? It was about an Avro Lancaster that had been damaged by flak in Germany and as it flew over the Netherlands to the coast it was picked up by a luftwaffe night fighter and it came down with the loss of all 7 crew. But the Dutch authorities in 2023 built a dam around the crash site, drained it and recovered the bodies so the families of the 3 missing could finally have closure. I think it's great your country shows its thanks and respect all this time later!

Jakko ‌
In 1:35 you only really have two options: AFV Club has an early and a late LVT (4), while Italeri has a range of them (those were also sold in Revell boxes, BTW). The AFV Club kits are much better detailed but harder to build, the Italeri ones are simpler to build but have a number of mistakes. Also, you can probably get two Italeri LVTs for the price of one AFV Club one.

For LVTs in the Pacific, any of the above will do. For British ones in Europe, though, you want an LVT (2), LVT(A) (2) or LVT (4) kit, and if you go for the AFV Club one, the early type, not the late. None of these include the 20 mm Polsten gun, though. LVT-2 Amtrac (Italeri 6462, 1:35) LVT-(A)2 "Saipan" (Italeri 6470, 1:35) LVT-4 Water Buffalo (Italeri 379, 1:35) Water Buffalo LVT-4 (AFV Club AF35205, 1:35)

As for the lake: you mean the IJsselmeer 🙂 That's quite a way from where I live, but I had heard of it, yes.

Danny Ray Author
Yes that's the lake 🙂.
Wow, as ever Jakko your knowledge blows me away. To be honest the first time I've ever really noticed the LVT (prob cos of my new interest in tracked vehicles since starting modelling) was in your book Tanks at Westkappelle. I think I'll go for an AFV club version but the one with the cannon wasn't at westkappelle, is that what you're saying? Please forgive me, not been up long and I've overdone things a bit this weekend. Not booze. Just walking and stuff. I could sleep another week!

Do AFV do one with a polsten cannon? Was that the A4? The 'A' stood for armoured, is that correct?

Basically I want the one that helped liberate my old mate Jakko! 🙂 but the one with the MG facing front and one facing back would suffice.
I was telling my brother that the allies bombed the dykes on your island the hinder the Germans defence but killed 159 islanders thru drowning in the process! Necessary I suppose but civilians bore a lot of the brunt of things. As usual.

Have you ever built an LVT by the way? Sure I asked before.

Ps that Buffalo with the shark teeth looks great. That might be the one I think. Was that version at westkappelle/vlissingen, etc?

Danny Ray Author
Did you see it on the news in Netherlands Jakko? At the time? Last year? Or year before? The Dutch authorities do spend large sums making sure allied aircrew get recovered wherever possible. Which is fantastic and a great way of trying to repay the allies sacrifice. Good on you all. I've always liked the Dutch (I know Dutch isn't the correct term for all netherlanders but that's how we were taught . That everyone from the Netherlands are Dutch and all from Holland. And you rightly corrected me. Unfortunately my brain isn't as plastic as it once was and new info tends to need constant reinforcement before it sticks. My brain is under assault at the moment too, trying to learn how to build models 😳😳😳😂😂😂😂😂

Jakko ‌
See your private messages for a reply, as it's getting very OT here 🙂

Clair Greenwood
What about the rest of us Jakko?? lol

Jakko ‌
The rest of you who want information about LVT's on Walcheren? That's not that difficult: do what Danny did and buy Book: Tanks at Westkapelle (by Jakko Westerbeke) 😉 (All proceeds go to the museum that published it, BTW, so you'd be supporting a good cause!)

Clair Greenwood
I'll be ordering my copy on payday 🙂

Robert H.
how things going with your T-34?

Danny Ray Author
I'm priming her over the weekend. Just a few bits to add after priming. I add the wheels and tracks at the end after painting too so a fair bit to do. I'll show the end result Robert H. To give you a laugh 🙂

Danny Ray Author
Well, after it's painted and decals on. Actually I noticed that I'll have to add the small (handles?) on rear of turret after the decal because of their position. They I'll have to paint one white cos it's exactly in line of the decal but it's too big to drape the decal over. You'll know what I mean from the scale drawing pics from the instructions. I'll post in the album. I'm not explaining it very well.

Danny Ray Author
@Robert H, I'm so sorry. How rude of me to not ask you about yours? Have you finished? Have you got an album of your one? That I can follow?

Danny Ray Author
I'm so glad that you people here don't openly mock my attempts. Obviously I'm very, very slap dash at the moment and untrained but I do feel like I'm learning along the way. Like most skills in life, you get some people who have a more natural talent for a particular skill but for most people it's a case of putting in that 10k hours of practice before becoming expert. (I'm too scared to try and work out if I have another 10k hours left! Surely I have? (Don't call me Shirley). Badoom Tsssk. 😳😂😂

Oh @Robert H, I found your T34 album. Inspiring. Absolutely fantastic work. As were the rest of your albums and builds. There really are a lot of talented people on this site. Definitely the right place for people like me to get great advice. Thank you all once again for all your help. And poor old Jakko whose ear I chew off almost every day this year! In fact, if I spent as long actually building rather than asking about it or searching for kits I'd probably already have completed ten thousand practice hours ! 😳😳😳😂😂😂😂😂👊🏻

Jakko ‌
The only thing that counts is whether you're enjoying it, really. The skills will come naturally when you do.

Well, unless you intend to enter your models into competitions, THEN what matters is building them to please the judges. That way, unhappiness lies 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I think I'll go to one of those competions or trade shows or wherever they hold them Jakko. To see the models in the flesh as it were. I guess they're held everywhere?

Dave
Little late for the show. But looking through your photos I noticed the surface casting effect on the turret. Just wondering if the kit came like that or did you add that effect.

Danny Ray Author
Hi Dave. Not me I'm afraid. That's a bit beyond me at the moment but I do know some people add some poly to a flat surface then wipe off after a few seconds to roughen the surface. I'd watch videos on it rather than listen to my rudimentary advice though 🙂.
Yeah both supplied turrets (one option is for the later version used in the Korean War) have the casting irregularities already there as part of Airfix's mold. I think it looks quite good. I like when manufacturers have welded seams as part of their molds too. Makes it a lot more realistic. That is until I come along and melt it all with excessive poly cement application! Oooppps 😳😂😂

Jakko ‌
See here for an idea of upcoming model shows: scalemates.com/events/index.php?filter=all

Danny Ray Author
Thanks jakko

Doubtingmango
Taking a seat! Nice progress

Danny Ray Author
I know you're all just being kind but, I'll take it. Not that much of it around these days. 🙂 thanks though Doubtingmango. 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I learned a new technique yesterday. Kind of. Basically when freehand painting very detailed parts, use a very dilute version of the colour with thinners which enables the capillary action to happen a lot easier (a bit like how extra thin cement works) and then, once the thinned paint has set the boundary to the edges that you require you just 'fill it in' as it were with the paint at the correct consistency. Seems good so far. Think I'll stick to this method until my airbrushing skills improve. 🙂

Danny Ray Author
Anyone know if final pic is of jigs? For a kit im checking the parts of. A Takom 2150 (kugelblitz flakpanzer on Panther chassis).

Robert H.
yes, these are jigs for the link and length-tracks only used to get them into the right shape when assembling. Will it be your next kit you want to build?

Danny Ray Author
No I think I'm going to build an Airfix 1:35 Tiger 1 early production (operation Citadel) next Robert. I'm gonna work my way up to the Takom, Border, Meng, etc. I've got a Tamiya Panther ausf.A to paint too. Actually it was my first 1:35 but the camo paint job scared me off. It wasn't a great kit really. It was one of the old kits that were designed to be radio control model bodies.

I'm gonna paint the T-34 later or tomorrow. Then put the wheels on. Actually, could those jigs be used to help build the tracks on the T34? They have several long sections then individual links for the 'bends' at either end. They might be the wrong shape, maybe?

Robert H.
no, they don't fit for the T-34, these kind of jigs are not really necessary. Have you already assembled link-and-length or single-link tracks?? it's not a big deal but you have to know how to do it and what you need, like the right glue a simple selfmade assembling jig so that all it is straight and the parts stay in position while glued together ... and how to bring them into the right shape directly on the model .... I've already built the Airfix Tiger I "Operation Citadel", you can take a look on my album Pzkpfw VI "Tiger", Operation Citadel, Russia summer 1943 | Album by RobiH (1:35) the kit comes with single-link tracks but I guess you know that already

Danny Ray Author
Thanks Robert. I haven't looked at the kit for awhile so didn't remember what tracks it had. What are these type tracks called that's on this T34? They have some longer straight parts but for the bends they have individual parts. You use extra thin on the individual ones? I have a border models Crusader kit that is gonna be part of my grandfather's memorial diorama (he was co-driver in crusaders in N Africa and then Sherman's in NA and then Italy. The crusader has really fiddly individual links. I have a Ryefield panzer iv that has jigs included for its individual tracks. In fact, I better get practicing cos I have about 60% of my (now) 70 plus kits that are armoured vehicles. Mostly tracked. Including 3 different German half tracks and I think (god I can't even remember what I bought and what I just looked at lol) an American half track with 105 mm howitzer in the back. Oh yeah I am also gonna include a lovely dragon M7 priest with individual link tracks as part of the memorial build. Well, if I can get someone to buy me a house big enough to display it! 😳😂😂😂

By the way I have managed to get almost all my kits at a reduced price. Otherwise I couldn't have afforded this many. Some less than half price. Really pays to shop around.

Robert H.
the T-34 kit has so called "link-and-length tracks". I use Revell Contacta Professional, a thicker, slow drying glue for styrene tracks. You've a big stash of kits, I took a look into it here on scalemates. As you wrote, I would also advice to start or carry on with the more simple kits like for example the old Tamiya kits, of course other brands have beginner-friendly kits too that don't overwhelm you

Danny Ray Author
So you recommend contacts for the link and length type of tracks? I did see that somewhere else actually. It's typical isn't it, I've just ordered a p38 lightning academy kit from Jadlam , my first kit for a while not bought from Temu and I could've added a bottle of the contacta to the order. Oh well 😳😂

Actually Robert. I have some humbrol precision poly that comes in a similar bottle to contacta, with a metal application tube. I think that is similar in that it's quite thick and slow to cure. I also squeezed 5 of those humbrol cement tubes that come with beginner kits into a bottle that also has a thin applicator tube. I think that's also similar because it's designed for beginners who make mistakes and therefore they don't want it to dry quickly. I'm gonna look it up. I almost just bought £20 worth of contacta but at this rate I'll have to sell my dog to cover my expenses! 😳😳😂😂😂😂

Jakko ‌
Even with liquid cement, you should have enough time to get the tracks on the model, especially if you don't build all of a track in one go, but do it (for example) the top run first and put that in place before the glue dries, and then add the bottom after it does.

Robert H.
I don't use Humbrol cement, so can't say how good it works but I think it could. I use a selfmade simple jig: an angle or something similar as a stop and guide, masking tape upside down to keep the links in place all mounted on a A4 cutting mat as base, I've also the "Track Maker - Assembly Jig For Track Links" from Trumpeter it's a good tool for single link tracks. Fit the links together in a track section or in one large piece, whatever makes more sense, I use Revell Contacta Professional, slow drying cement, glue the links at the contact points together, just some glue from above.. wait aprox. 15-20 minutes, it is now flexible and not more sticky, bend the track in the right shape around the wheels, create sag as you want, leave it in place until it's cured, klick the link for a pic of my selfmade jig-> my track Jig | Album by RobiH

Robert H.
.... and the Trumpeter jig [img1]

Danny Ray Author
Thanks chaps 😉 very helpful. As always 🙂

Danny Ray Author
Had my first airbrush nightmare just now. Added paint and thinners to my airbrush cup. Switched on the mini compressor and nothing came out! Luckily I have an even cheaper airbrush so I connected it up poured in the same paint from the other airbrush cup and it worked ok. Got both airbrushes working ok now. I don't think I'd cleaned them well enough. I even very lightly sanded the needles to make sure all the paint was fully off. I thought I'd maintained them quite well. Turns out that quite well just ain't good enough!!
I think it needs another coat, don't you? The last 2 pics are the 1:76. I'm not sure my little bottle is gonna be enough for the1:35 too!
I can see my paint budget may not be sufficient! When you scale it up, these paints are phenomenally expensive. Like hundreds of pounds a litre. Modellers pay a big premium for stuff, eh? 😳😳😳😳🫣

Danny Ray Author
By the way Robert I have a couple of jigs included in kits but yours are better cos you can do more links at one sitting! Was the Trumpeter one expensive? I think I can guess the answer is yes? Lol

Jakko ‌
> I even very lightly sanded the needles

Not sure that's a good idea. Airbrush needles are precision equipment, sanding them could damage the needle and then your airbrush might not work well anymore. Cleaning the needle is easily done with a soft cloth or kitchen roll and a solvent that will dissolve the paint you used (such as airbrush cleaner fluid).

> these paints are phenomenally expensive.

Yep. There are cheaper paints, but they're usually not great for modelling for a number of reasons. Coarse pigments you typically get in cheap(er) craft paints, for example, make spraying them through an airbrush harder.

Robert H.
@Danny, the price for the "Trumpeter Track Maker" is approx. what a good kit costs, so it's not a cheap tool. It is not absolutely necessary for the assembling of track links but in my humble opinion, it's a helpfull, well-made tool and it worth the money

Clair Greenwood
Hey Danny, Im afraid Jakko is 110% correct, the needles are chrome plated to make them very smooth so paint flows well, even light sanding will introduce micro grooves that will screw up your spray pattern. May also lead to rust starting if you removed enough of the chrome to expose bare steel. I would look into just buying a couple new needles as they are usually pretty cheap. No need to replace the entire airbrush.

I work in only acrylics these days to limit exposure to harsh chemicals, my lungs are in bad shape and I dont need to get any worse. To clean mine I have a couple of kitchen style storage containers which I use biodegradable cleaner for automotive parts cleaning. I get it by the gallon from Harbor Freight, mix a little with water and let the parts soak a while. Your airbrush will be perfectly clean afterwards and ready to go. If you use other than acrylics thats fine, this stuff will take the factory applied paint off auto parts if you let it soak more than 24 hours. Its great cleaner I use for many things. Im sure there's something similar available in the UK, try hardware or tool stores.

For indy link track I just use a small bench vise thats about 4 inches across. Drop the guide tooth down in between the jaws with then slightly tight to keep everything in line, then add more links. I do runs of 10, then once all runs are done I plug them together the same way. Dont worry if they splay a bit to one side or the other, real track does that too. The running gear will straighten it all out when put on the tank. 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I love you people. You all have such knowledge. Message received regarding the sanding. I do have some spare needles actually. I bought some. In videos I see people doing very intricate work with their airbrushes but mine just seems to pulse out (I have a portable one with a small inbuilt compressor that can run when unplugged due to contains batteries too). I'm getting better with it but there's no way I could get small thin lines with it. Maybe I should think about getting a better compressor?

I don't have the space for a bench vice unfortunately. In fact, I'm doing all my modelling in my living room! I have a G Plan coffee table type thing and I've covered it in cardboard and have all my tools and workstation on it at all times. Thank god my wife isn't around anymore. She'd have killed me! 😂

I think I'm gonna buy one Robert. 🙂 a trumpeter track mate.

I too don't like the thought of too many chemicals. Though I'm a real hypocrite cos I vape at every opportunity!!

Jakko ‌
A pulsating airflow is usually either because of a compressor that doesn't give continuous pressure, or because of dirt in the airbrush. One of those tiny compressors that I understand you have, probably doesn't have an air tank in it, and if it has a diaphragm type of pump it would not give a smooth airflow. A compressor with a tank is much better, because the air in the tank will come out at a continuous pressure without pulsating.

Clair Greenwood
Again Mr. Jakko is right on the money, it's the inbuilt compressor causing your pulses. I'm sure it's using a rubber diaphragm which when it changes direction actually causes a slight vacuum for a fraction of a second, but enough to mess you up. Now if a compressor with an air tank is a bit too much to buy at usually round $100 in the states here, make sure when you do get one without a tank that it has a water trap and a pressure control knob. For really intricate stuff you want a low air pressure, like 15 - 18 psi, and spend more time painting slowly to get the effects you want. Right now my compressor doesn't have a tank and I have no issues at all ( except I dont really enjoy painting and I absolutely hate the cleaning up lol ) I do have a brand new air tank to install on it, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

Chemicals arent bad if they're chosen my friend 😛 I smoke cigarettes about a pack a day and I smoke the wacky tobakie, Im actually on that from my Dr to deal with constant pain. Im sure alot of my goof ups come from it, and Im sure I miss probably half. Hahahaha Oh and then toss in a couple indulgences in some lovely Little green Fairy ( Absinthe ) and Im a happy camper for a while, but I have no idea where camp is anymore. LMAO

You're right on about the people here, this is a great group following your build and trying to help. I appreciate and thank everyone for their input, Im sure we are all learning something new 🙂

Ben M
I wondered how those little airbrushes without a compressor worked.

I bought an air quality meter for my garage and I can say please mates WEAR A RESPIRATOR when you airbrush. The thing goes off the charts even with acrylic paints. This stuff is seriously bad for you.

This is what I use:

3M Half Facepiece Reusable... amazon.com/dp/B007JZ..ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LJSXFI (1 Pair) Respirator... amazon.com/dp/B0C13J..ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Robert H.
so many different topics have been addressed in the meantime. I agree with Clair and Jakko and just continue with some commenting, could be a bit mixed up... Regarding the airbrush needles, you can certainly rework them a bit if necessary to tune them up (but not for cleaning) this can be done with polishing paste, sandpaper isn't suitable. The "chemie" for cleaning an airbrush depends mainly on the type of paint you use. I use purely water-based paints, don't stink and are non-toxic, (of course while airbrushing, best in a spray-booth, you've to protect you against the spray mist) almost exclusively Vallejo Model Air. Cleaning is easy; I use household window cleaner, car windshield cleaner and 70% disinfectant alcohol, so no toxic chemicals are required, like for example for lacquer-based paints. And from time to time or when conventional cleaning is no longer sufficient, I disassemble the airbrush completely for the cleaning in a simple ultrasonic-cleaning-device, filled with disinfectant alcohol. For airbrushing, you should get a compressor with pressure adjustment and a water separator, preferably one with an air tank, but it also works well without an air-tank, depending what kind of airbrushing-works. A problem while airbrushing can be that the compressor starts to overheat during prolonged continuous use without longer cooling-breaks, to much condensation forms, the mechanical stress and the wear of the compressor components increases. I use two compressors in parallel; as soon as one starts to get to hot, I switch to the other. Such a battery-powered airbrush you have may work for some basics but not for more demanding airbrushing-works like detailing, post-shading, color modulation and so on.... I normaly have also 3 airbrushes whith differnt needle/nozzle sizes, 0.2, 0.35, 0.5, for the differnt airbrush-tasks in use, no need for changing needle/nozzle, like you use differnt brush-sizes for hand painting. This all has gradually developed over the years I build model kits and is not really necessary for a starter to get into the hobby ... all just some remarks from my side... and, yep, if you take it serious and you have certain demands on the results, building model kits isn't a real cheap, simple hobby 😉

Rui S
Just my two cent contribution. For many years I used a tankless diaphragm compressor and now I use a normal one with a tank, but in both cases, as they heat up brutally, I have always used a fan directed directly at the cooling blades of their "head" and so I have always been able to have long painting sessions without interruptions and without problems.

googleadservices.com..B6BAgHEFI&adurl=

Danny Ray Author
Wow. I had one day away and look at all this I've gotta digest! Lol
I cleaned the inside of the airbrush with some proper cleaner and it seems far smoother again but I do think I need a better quality compressor. Not just the tiny one inbuilt to the portable thing I have. I think it'd really struggle when I'd want to do intricate, thin lines, etc.
I think I should definitely stop spraying without any face mask whatsoever though as suggested. I no longer do wacky baccy though so I only make mistakes due to incompetence 🙂

I used Vallejo black primer after seeing it used like a type of preshading. In fact I think it might even be fake Vallejo but it's come out ok. I've sprayed humbrol 117 over it on an 1:76 T34 and it looks sweet. Now when I scale up to the 1:35, maybe it might not work but if it doesn't, I'll fix it. As for painting unassembled tracks? I like creating problems for myself 😂.

Jakko ‌
"Looks sweet" means "looks good" or "I like what I see."

Guy Rump
Looking good, following. 👍

Clair Greenwood
It's a very normal saying here in the USA especially with automobiles. I guess all of us are wrong with that too.

Jakko ‌
> mostly phrases with no sense!

How do you reckon that? All of them are perfectly normal things to say in English. They may not make sense in your native language ("looks sweet" doesn't in mine, either, unless you're talking about candy or something) but they do in English.

Rui S
😄 😄 😄

Jakko ‌
Of course they don't give any information on the subject — they're meant to tell you how the person who typed (or spoke) the phrase feels about the subject. They give you information about the speaker, not about the thing being discussed.

Clair Greenwood
May a dog in heat find love on his leg.... May the fleas of 1000 camels infest his underwear.... Gosh, what a winner

Robert H.
@endreuskas - for you to think about - "Remember, when you are dead, you do not know you are dead. It is only painful for others.
The same applies when you are stupid"
Ricky Gervais

Danny Ray Author
@Robert H that is the perfect comment!!

Sorry to all my fellow friends. To have to listen to that man ranting. He's obviously a very unhappy, insignificant person IRL. So I won't even delete his comments. It might make him feel like a man. Here at least. I guess he has to somewhere? Sweeeeeeeet! 😂😂😂😂😂

Danny Ray Author
Robert H, or anyone really but you did mention them Rob, preshading, post shading, modulating, do you have any recommendations for any books about airbrushing? I primed in black after hearing preshading without even knowing what preshading is. Also modulation, heard that a lot. I can just about put a coat of something on a model but I get varying results. Spitting sometimes, etc. I have spent a lot on actual kits but I think I should defo get a separate compressor if I wanna get serious. I do have a big issue with space though. I'm building in my Living room! I live with my brother now and luckily he's quite easy going. Though I think he'd draw the line at me storing a compressor on his double bed! 😂😂😂😂😳

Jakko ‌
> it would be better to see here more technical discussions on the posted models!

If that is what you're looking for, you would be much better off going to Missing-Lynx or Armorama: tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/index.php and forums.kitmaker.net/..afv-scale-modeling/6 — Scalemates is much more a mutual admiration society than a place where the ins and outs of the posted models get discussed.

Jakko ‌
> a low level of modeling skills for the T34 author, which is obvious?

Maybe, just _maybe_, that's because he's new to this hobby. So were you once, BTW. In any case, unless you want to take your models to a contest, then IMO the only one you need to please with them is yourself, not random strangers on the Internet. Yes, we do post pictures of them so random strangers on the Internet can look at them and comment on them — but those random strangers on the Internet should do well to remember that nobody needs to actually _care_ about their opinions unless they want to.

> I will never post here any of my models!

Your good right, of course. But the attitude makes you come across as elitist, which — just like above — you don't actually need to care about because it's the opinion of a random stranger on the Internet 🙂 However, if all you come to do on a site is complain about things you see there, why join the site at all?

Robert H.
@eundreuskas - yes, in my opinion you're stupid and limited in social competence, based on your acting here, but you don't get because you're stupid, haha. Do us all a favor and piss off, you're not welcome

Jakko ‌
I don't agree with the above comment 🙂 I think @eundreuskas has simply come to Scalemates with a misunderstanding of the kind of modelling discussions that happen here.

Robert H.
@ Danny, I've never had or used a book on airbrushing, so I can't recommend one, beside of groups you can also google the different techniques and watching tutorials on YouTube. Search first for simple technique-tutorials how to do the things...priming, post- and pre-shading, color modulation... and just go step by step. You'll find everything you need to know and then practice. And yes, you do need the appropriate equipment, otherwise certain airbrush painting techniques just can't be done right, a little spray booth with extraction should be maybe too.

Rui S
@ Danny, from my long experience (In and Out) on this Hobby the most important thing, is what many of us say and Robert H. just mention. Practice practice and more practice and of course dedication.
I was furtunatly enough to get an single action Badger airbrush and a small diaphragm (no oil) air compressor from England, when there was no internet and no books about it (at least avaible in Portugal) and I can say the most fine lines I got from it with Humbrol enammels, was in that first atempts, and that, without anything like pressure gauge.
Nowadays I've a compressor with pressure gauge and several airbrushes, but I'm still learning to work with the diferent pressures I can get and dillution of the paints too. So My two cent is Practicing and dedication.

Robert H.
@Jakko - If someone's comprehension is so limited that he can't see what the thread is about - namely, that a beginner, who of course still makes mistakes, is simply looking for support and help on various topics - sorry for him. If he doesn't like it, the posts, the history..., fine, then he should just stay out of it and keep scrolling. But no, what does he do? He starts to post condescending, aggressive comments. To me, that's just a stupid person and he doesn't deserve attention

Ben M
I use the "hide" feature on contentious users's profiles (thank you, Tim), and then I am able to forget they exist.

Clair Greenwood
I dont give 2 shits about rules and such at this point, if this looser lived anywhere close to me Id kick his ass till he tastes shoe leather for a month. Its not a threat, its a promise. I wasnt afraid of a column of Iraqi tanks Im sure not worried about taking on some loudmouth condescending PUNK ASS BITCH and slapping the taste right out of his mouth. You're lucky your on that side of the drink man, but I sure hope you run into a guy like me who just LOVES to stomp on ASSHOLES!!!!! Schmuck needs an attitude adjustment the old fashioned way.

Clair Greenwood
Oh buddy, Id be just fine watching you spit out every last tooth 🙂 Have a horrible day today and a worse one tomorrow. Now, I got work to do so F Off and crawl back into your spot under that rock where you belong.

Robert H.
@endreuskas - you like to criticize others, but you don't show anything from yourself, so you're nothing more than a coward smartass

@Clair, I'm grateful and proud of all veterans

Rui S
😄 😄 😄

Luc B
calling this guy a retard would be insulting all other retards on this planet.

Robert H.
Is he suffering from brain decomposition?? I summarize, stupid, a smartass and cowardly, and add: ridiculous person

Robert H.
@Rui S - 🍿🍻 😉😂

Rui S
@ Robert H. 👍 😄 😄 😄

Robert H.
😂😂😂 what a clown

Danny Ray Author
Sorry to have been silent last few days. I've not been feeling great. Had some heart irregularity. Apparently it's not dangerous (well it wasn't before). Gotta have 24hr ecg trace. Still managed some very brief work on the 1:76 version of the T34. Those little rubber tracks are awful. I heated the metal thing too much so immediately seared straight thru them. Then had to superglue that one which killed some of the paint. Then the other track flaked loads of paint off as I was trying to add it to the model. Also those small , classic kits seem to have very poor fitting and the wheels weren't that true so it doesn't look great. Not terrible I guess but not great. I think I'll try my hand at some weathering on it for my first time! That's a real bonus with AFVs in particular, don't you think? No showroom pristine tanks on the battlefields in 1939-45, eh? 😳😜😁😂

By the way thanks to you all for giving me advice and having my back when Mr Gott in Himmel piped up. Why do people get like that? If he'd approached me and tried to tell me that he thought I was making a big mistake and explained why, I might've listened but his attitude made me feel like stripping the paint off all my previous builds (all 5 of them, including the 3 still in progress lol) and redoing the priming in extra dark, thick, deep dark, deepest dark, extra extra dark BLACK GLOSS!! 😳😂😂😂😂😂😂

Rui S
The rubber tracks are also one of the various reasons I quit building 1:72. I still have a SdKfz 250 Halftrack, all painted down and ready for action (and it saw action on a war game, in the other century), but... without tracks. 😄
They simply melted/broke/desapeared, on the building process 😠 No super glue at the time.

As To the trolls, they keep coming, and once in while it happens for one or other reason. He is a goner like all the other ones, so don't bother 😉

Danny Ray Author
On the other end of the scale, I'm a bit daunted by the expectation of individual, workable tracks but at least they're a semi decent size. Imagine making individual tracks in 1:76?
My dear old mum bought me some magnified glasses with a built in light at Xmas. Don't think I could detail paint without them. They've been so useful. So my next bit to do on the 1:35 is to give it its first coat of the humbrol 117. I now know why you need to use thinners with these paints. When using a brush they dried so unbelievably quickly. I think I'm gonna need another bottle of paint.

Now I have numerous US and German and British tanks that were fighting in the ETO. Do any of you buy in bulk any colours that you find yourself using time after time? I'm guessing that Dunkelgelb in its various shades would be the biggest seller or needed the most? Have any of you got fave manufacturers? So far I seem to like AK and especially their AFV range. I keep seeing Mr Hobby and Mr Color mentioned everywhere but have never used any. I just wish I had a room to store everything in. I'm getting rather swamped with stuff now! Lol I have said it before but really need to mean it this time. 2 more kits have arrived yesterday. A Dragon T19 105mm howitzer gun carriage Half Track and one of my rare modern vehicles a 1:35 Paladin Self Propelled gun. It looks huge. And scary! 🙂

Clair Greenwood
Yes I seen you got the Palidin, Im so jelly. It's high on my hit list too 🙂

Jakko ‌
> trolls

The now-gone (and his messages) endreuskas wasn't a troll — just someone with a high opinion of his own opinion. The kind of person who appears to think that everyone who doesn't do things the way he would do them, isn't doing it right.

> Do any of you buy in bulk any colours

Only in as far as I prefer 23 ml Tamiya bottles over 10 ml (because they only cost about a third more but you get over twice the paint), and generally make sure I have a spare bottle of colours I use a lot 🙂

> Mr Hobby and Mr Color

Those are two names for the same paint: the lacquer-based acrylics sold by GSI Creos (AKA "Gunze-Sangyo" AKA "Gunze", which are older names for the company). They have three lines of model paint:

• Mr. Color, AKA Mr. Hobby, is lacquer-based acrylic.
• Aqueous, AKA Mr. Aqueous, AKA Mr. Aqueous Hobby, AKA Mr. Hobby Aqueous, AKA Mr. Aqueous Color, AKA …, is alcohol-based acrylic.
• Acryson is some kind of water-soluble lacquer paint, I think.

I can't get along with lacquer paint such as Mr. Color, but some people love it — as always with model paints 🙂 They smell very strongly, they need the proper thinners (Mr. Levelling Thinner) and they're almost impossible to brush-paint with because the solvent in them will dissolve just about anything underneath and I have no clue how to clean a brush from this paint without ruining it.

OTOH, I like Aqueous paint quite a lot. It's much like Tamiya acrylics, but not exactly the same (they smell slightly different), and if you can get along with Tamiya acrylics you will get the hang of these in no time. They don't appear to cover very well with a brush, though you can certainly brush-paint with them. You can thin them with water or alcohol.

I've never even seen Acryson paints, so I can't say anything useful about them. I get the impression they're like Mr. Color but can be thinned and cleaned up with water, which might be an advantage. Maybe I should buy a bottle one of these days.

Danny Ray Author
Sorry for the late reply Jakko. Very, very well explained. As usual!! Thanks for always taking the time to explain things. I do appreciate it!

John
I'll add my two pence. I love Tamiya paints to death, they are quite versatile and I'm comfortable with their behavior (behaviour 😉 ) through airbrush and brush painting, though I highly recommend a retarder for the latter.

Yes you can thin with water or isopropanol but Tamiya paints also have lacquer properties so they can be used with Tamiya's lacquer thinner or the old favorite Mr. Levelling thinner, which gives fantastic results and also even the mr. Color rapid thinner. Combine the rapid thinner with LP-11 and you have a really good basic bare metal finish.

The only problem with Tamiya is the limited range of colors, but replikator.club has a nice paint mixing database, including for AFVs of most belligerents in WWII. I can't vouch for those particular mixes, but I have used their RLM mixes for aircraft and they've all been pretty good for the most part.

Lastly, consider a small investment in these tools which have really helped me in terms of paint mixing, storage and making less version Paint handling tools | Album by JohnR (No)

P.S. A really small version (0-10uL) of the above makes a really handy super glue applicator. 👍

Danny Ray Author
Thanks John. The longer I read about modelling and associated items the more I realise that it would take at least 10 lifetimes to even scratch the surface!! Very informative reply. Thank you.

Jakko ‌
The best thing to do is just _do it_ 🙂

Danny Ray Author
I think I'm just realising that Jakko. It's not like most of the kits I have can't be bought again and made again if I mess up so badly that it can't be rescued. And 99% of mistakes can be fixed. Even if the model ends up becoming a battle casualty with tracks hanging off. The armour twisted and bent or other disguises for big errors in building 🙂

I have been trying to sort out my stash. Had all my boxes out and rearranging. I was thinking of grouping it by manufacturer, WW1 (I do wish I had more early stuff. I love the quirkiness!!) , WW2, Modern era (I only have a few modern ones but I was scared to start buying cos I don't think I'd be able to stop! lol). I'm trying to limit what I buy now. All I want from the top of my head is The LVT-(a)4 that you turned me on to from your book, the PT boat from operation chariot that I can't remember the name of and my fave plane, possibly ever, the amazing A10 Thunderbolt Warthog. I'm surprised that there aren't more versions of that kit. It even looks great with the shark teeth paint scheme. I could listen to that Gatling cannon all day. In fact they should supply a mini speaker with that on a loop for display purposes imho 😂🫣😳😂

Danny Ray Author
Oh I forgot to say. Due to my giving so much headspace to my tanker Step grandfather Danny Murphy who I know a little about his war records, I have decided to (and I can't believe I have never thought to do this before) obtain my blood grandfather's record. I know the approximate date of his death (on his grave stone in Athens British military cemetery they say between 20th and the 24th of April 1941) , his regiment and that he was in another regiment before the war began because he was in the army due to having a choice between prison or joining up . This was quite common back then. I have a trophy of his for being the fastest sprinter in his regiment (RASC not sure what that means. Think it's Royal Army Signal Corps?) and he was also the champion boxer at his weight of the same regiment. Both dated 1936. He was 24 when he died in 1941 so was just 19 when he won both trophies. When he was killed he was in the Rangers (KRRC. Kings Royal Ranger Rifle Corps).

Guy Rump
Hi Danny, the RASC was the Royal Army Service Corps. They were the forerunner of the Royal Corps of Transport which was subsumed into the Royal Logistic Corps in the 90s. The Kings Royal Rifle Corps was an infantry regiment made up of 2 Regular Army Bns and 6 Territorial Army Bns. The 1st & 2nd Bn The Rangers became 9 and 10 Bn KRRC in 1941. 9 Bn (The Rangers) KRRC fought a desperate rear guard action in Greece before being evacuated to Crete. Later, in 1966 the KRRC were amalgamated and became 2 Bn Royal Green Jackets which has since (2007) become 4 Bn The Rifles.

Danny Ray Author
Thank you Guy. You just reminded me that was indeed the battalion he was part of. It's on his headstone. My father didn't remember his dad. He was too young. I only have one picture of him. He's with my grandmother and my dad. My dad was just 18 months old when his father was killed. Part of my dad's final wishes was to have half of his ashes spread over his father's grave. I'm not sure if it's allowed to be done but I can't see how anybody would know? We hope to get to do it at the end of this summer. My dad did visit his dad's grave in the 1980's but only once. Least we can do is put him with him as he wanted. I think it affected my father more than he realised not having his dad around during his formative years. Sometimes we forget that behind all this machinery there were real people with real families, problems, hopes, etc.
I think I've just inspired myself to plan a diorama of a British infantryman (do they make specific regimental figure kits? Say the KRRC?) . Cue a billion questions from me about how to paint figures now!! Quick Jakko, run!! Hide!! lol

Thanks again Guy. That's informative. I love this site. It's great 🙁 ps I have a good friend from my schooldays who served in the Green Jackets. They are mostly made up of Londoners, I believe. Anyway he always says something when I speak of my grandfather (they were both in the same regiment because, as Guy says, the Rifles became The Green Jackets). It is (I hope I remember correctly) Celer Au Dax (cue me saving this text in case it's deleted as I leave the site to check Google on my phone lol
And it's a good job I did. I had it totally wrong. It should be Celer Et Audax. Which means Swift and Bold) it is their regimental motto. 😁

Clair Greenwood
Hey Danny I have about 2 Tb of 1/35 stl files, about half is figures. I'll look though over the weekend in between automotive work I have going on and see what all I have that may work. On a side note and I've only done this once so far but I can take a single photo to make a scale figure of a particular person. I made a figurine of my granddaughter that came out pretty damn good for a first attempt. If you like I could try to do the same if you'll privately share the photo with your grandfather. I just think a figurine of "him" rather than some generic soldier might mean more to you and as my friend I'd love to make that happen for you.

Danny Ray Author
That sounds amazing. There were pictures of my grandfather actually with his tank and round camp fires and on motorcycles (think it had a sidecar. Might've been a captured German machine). Unfortunately my grandmother lived in their house in the English county called Kent but after my grandfather died (he was only 67 sadly) she only ever visited their apartment in London a couple of times in the remaining few years she lived. When she passed I was living in the Canary Islands and I asked my younger brother to ensure anything of sentimental worth be salvaged and kept but somehow, and it pisses me off hugely to this day, many of the photographs were not kept or saved. So the few pictures I have of him are when he was older. Though I may have a couple from the 1960's at a wedding or something.
The pictures of him in actual British North African Tanker uniform (you know what I mean. In 10th Royal Hussars uniform at the actual time he was there would've been fantastic.
It really irks me that they were lost. I'm just glad I have his medals and cap badges.
I do have a picture of my blood grandfather (Daniel Murphy, the tanker was my grandmother's 2nd husband. She remarried in 1968. The year I was born. After my grandfather Walter Sidney Ray died age 24 in the retreat from Greece to Crete. He's buried in the British war cemetery in Athens. He had been missing for a couple of years. My grandmother searched for him for that whole time. I even have correspondence between her and the German authorities. They even wish her luck in locating him.) anyway, he was a ranger. He was already in the army when war broke out. He was in the King's Royal Rifle Corps. He'd transferred to that outfit because I have his trophies for winning the 100 yard regimental rave and for winning the 10 stone 7 pounds weight regimental boxing championship when he was in the RASC in 1936. He'd joined the army after a court gave him the option of either joining up or serving a prison sentence. Times were tough back then in London! And he must've been a pretty good athlete to win the running and boxing trophies!! 🙂
I feel like I'm on This Is Your Life (not sure if that had that show in your country but I was actually on the British version in 1993. My ex gf had a famous singer uncle and they paid for the family who were living in the Canary Islands to appear in his family seats alongside him. No doubt you've never heard of him? Joe Longthorne. He was an impersonator too 😳😂👊🏻

Danny Ray Author
Now that's what I call a comment!! 😳🫣😂😂😂😂

Robert H.
@Danny, how's it going with your build?