Ohio George Montgomery's Multi-Maverick (MPC 1:25)

In Japan we can buy it for over 5000 yen, $35. 

This kit enables us to change the wheelbase length and switch gasser or altered class after build. Someone I found on the web fix in either and it seems to be easier to finish. But I will try finish to be able to change to both. 

I filled and sanded the body over the weekend. It looks really cool.I was careful not to dull the sharp press lines, and peeled off the entire surface.The detachable parts around the front fender have claws, but they are scratched, so I'm considering putting in neodymium. 

I've added neodymium magnets to the removable fender section. This will keep them from wobbling. 

I've finished temporary assembly of the chassis before painting. All four wheels are on the ground and the alignment seems to be fine. The photo shows the wheelbase as Altered class, which is longer, and it can be changed to Gasser class. The adhesive margins on both the front and rear axles were severe, so it took a lot of time to adjust them. I changed the positions of parts and pins, re-wired the brass wire, and used epoxy adhesive to ensure strength. 

I also put the body on and checked the fit of the interior. The body support was replaced with piano wire. The engine exhaust pipes were threaded with brass wire to make it removable. It requires a lot of adjustments, but it's fun to build! 

I've resumed work on the Multi-Maverick, and prepared the engine.
I adjusted the mounting holes for the accessories and inserted brass wire into the oil filter and starter motor. This will likely become a regular practice in the future.
I'm the kind of person who likes to shape parts properly, but I want to use the plated parts as they are and make the most of the kit. This means that the parting lines will remain, forcing me to reinterpret the finished product as a model and restructure the finish (this is part of the fun of American modelcars), but the shine of the plating makes them less noticeable. I used the Ultimate Nipper to smoothly and neatly cut the gates as close as possible, and plan to retouch the remaining marks with Tamiya Paint Markers. 

I sprayed red and metallic colors and finished painting the main part of the chassis. In the end, it took a while because I had to fix the ejector pins and roughness on the roll bar.
I intentionally made the red a little brighter.
I used six different metallic colors, and in particular the drivetrain and firewall are gold in the box art, but they looked a little out of place so I went with the GSI Creos’ super red gold. I think it turned out nicely. 

The chassis is done.
Epoxy glue and brass wire are used to ensure strength, all four wheels are firmly on the ground, and there are no problems with the variable gimmick.