80000 Feet and Climbing - SR-71A Blackbird - Full Build Report
Comments
117 3 February, 05:44
Wow! With your skills this is gonna be an absolute masterpiece. Also, I wanna see how you'll handle the black overall paint... Popcorns are on me, guys!
1 5 February, 12:00
Taking a seat. Very curious how the extra details will work - I have the base kit, but haven't decided whether to expand it with such nice details yet. Good luck!
1 5 February, 12:40
You know guys who is the most curious on what and how I am gonna do? Me 😄 My philosophy is "just start, ask questions later". It is the most enjoyable approach, you encounter problems on the go, you find solutions, try new techniques and create new ideas. Which is very rewarding. And in the end you have a nice result. Not a perfect one, but one you can look back on and smile or shake your head...
5 February, 16:02
Definitely watching closely as well! Interesting subject with a talented scale modeller + more than fine aftermarket = engaging and inspiring build!
1 9 February, 21:41
Taking a seat as well. Very creative way to deal with that landing gear leg 👍
1 10 February, 06:10
Okay, for the Blackbird lover, this kit is a truly amazing aggregation! I really like this. I grew up around Beal AFB in California. There is no aircraft more magical or mystical than the Blackbird. Your care in addressing these fit issues is very much appreciated! A 1/48 scale Blackbird is a very large kit. Most will always have trouble finding a place to keep it. But with these new parts, I think it makes building this kit a true challenge and worth all the efforts. Your handling of the main wheel well bays is spot on! Trade offs between building and painting are very well done with your suggestions! This Habu is going to look fantastic! Bravo Zulu!
2 10 February, 15:18
48 is waaaay too big for me, but I am sure I will find some inspiration in your build for the 144 kit in my stash. Following with great interest.
1 10 February, 23:05
Those heat blankets look absolutely awesome!!! Yeah, that definitely works!!!
1 11 February, 01:03
really impressive landing gear painting. you better put it on a miror when finished !
2 11 February, 03:13
Besides the fitting issues, the detail boost is impressive with those printed parts. Awesome paintjob 👍
1 12 February, 09:14
Heiliger Bimbam! 👍
I'm the one sitting in the back with eyes wide open.
1 12 February, 10:06
I'll be checking this project every morning before start working 👀👀👀
1 13 February, 10:03
This is one, if not the best, build I've seen of the Blackbird; thanks for sharing.
Do you think shaving the bottom fuselage for the wells would've helped?
1 13 February, 17:03
Oh. My. Goodness. I think I would've thrown away the whole thing… have you managed to repair the outside funny-looking part??
1 13 February, 17:19
I'm still kinda awestruck by the painting and detail in the main and nose wheel wells!!!
1 13 February, 20:58
As every sane aftermarket company would do test fits on the kits it designs its stuff for, only devine intervention can convincingly explain repetitive malalignments in a bunch of aftermarket sets.
2 13 February, 21:11
I know the judgement of the aftermarket gods all too well. But this is definitely on another level.
I suppose it's a good reminder to not get carried away by the nice detail and still dry fit it.
But nevertheless, a perfect recovery as expected! 👍
2 14 February, 08:22
Really enjoying following your build and the concise information (though appreciate likely not so enjoyable for you, as you encounter these aftermarket vs original kit issues!) However this all looks utterly convincing to me so far. This Blackbird is gonna look phenomenal 👍
2 14 February, 09:26
Guys hold your horses this project merely just started😄
@Carlos: now in retrospective I guess it would not have hurt, but there is not a big margin to play with, maybe 0.5mm and you would have to remove the material very evenly and precisely so the wells would fit snuggly on all sides
@Davide: this is not a big issue a generous helping of super glue can't solve. Will do when the fuselage halves are closed.
@ Alexander & Michael: I don't know, I guess I subconsciously expected the parts not only fit perfectly but to paint themselves considering the ridiculous price I paid for the set. The idea of any fitting issues didn't cross my mind even once. Aftermarket parts are always a devious minefield, don't get fooled like me and dry fit!
2 14 February, 14:48
Guys and gals, I am off on a 10 day vacation. Need to recover from all rhe stress right at the beginning of the project😄 See ya!
4 14 February, 14:51
those parts have an amazing level of detail, bit looks like the manufacturer did not even try to check if they fit approximately.... what a pain in the.... wheel wells
great job to get them to behave!
2 14 February, 21:12
Just to note, the interior of every part of the Habu (Wheel Wells, Engine Compartments, etc.) are all like the inside of an oven operating at a constant 475 degrees F/246 degrees C. So there is this general collection of "soot" and grime on everything...
1 14 February, 23:39
Thx for the input Desert Marlin👍 Just the fact alone this thing expands mid flight from the heat like a couple of inches blows my mind
1 15 February, 12:03
👀
I only work on these resin parts wet with lots of water in my bathroom. You never know ....
18 March, 09:22
Well, actually, we do know. 🙂 Resin dust is hazardous. Wet sanding is a good idea. Wearing a dust mask is an alternativ.
So: do as I say (and don´t do as I - still too often - do 😉 )
18 March, 09:45
Thx mates! Sorry for the slow progress, still waiting for some essential aftermarket. Finished all the "boring" stuff meanwhile, like cleaning and sorting parts
1 19 March, 10:46
How I could overlook this post so far? Absolutely phenomenal so far! I am looking forward to the next construction steps.🙂
1 1 July, 19:48
Interestingly the other 3D panel seems to be respect the base shape better, e.g. RedFox.
With all the additional bling-bling you will need may be the brass undercarriage?
Brass SR71 Blackbird Underca..raft Models ACM-48050, 1:48)
Nice that the saga continues 👍
1 1 July, 20:10
Welcome mates!
bughunter, I have already sunk half a years modeling budget into this project including the undercarriage upgrade set from Metallic Details, so I`m good. Besides I am not a fan of metal undercarriage parts. What additional value do they provide besides the extra weight? I did acquire a metal leg set for my Su-34 project. To say I was not impressed would be quite the understatement. The parts were bent, warped and misshapen copies of the kit parts. That was my excursion into the world of metal undercarriages...
2 2 July, 13:31
Your experience sounds like landing gear from SCM Brand: Scale Aircraft Conversions
In my eyes this is scrap! It's nothing more than the kit landing gear molded in a soft tin alloy (wie Lözinn). Garbage. The copyright is questionable too.
What I mean are metal undercarriages from Eduard "Bronze" line, ecample: P-51D undercarriage legs BRONZE EDUARD (Eduard 648495, 1:48)
or the real brass ones from SCM Brand: Aerocraft Models
I own gears from both companies. They are really solid brass, I can't bend them with my fingers.
One more thing I wanted to mention: since 3D printed undercarriages are often too brittle to hold a heavy model, there are now some with metal reinforcements, e.g. from SCM Brand: Detail & Wonder Studio
themodellingnews.com..for-your-tamiya.html
and ResKit (steel rods and now in some cases also cast brass See the brass on the front gear A-10 Thunderbolt II landing ..et (ResKit RSU48-0544, 1:48)). This also looks extremely robust.
So back to your project: you asked for advantage, I and would say that the linked SR-71 gear from Aerocraft models gives you robust legs which will never break. See the pictures here: aerocraftmodels.com/..-revell-kit-66-p.asp
1 3 July, 09:47
An extra €30 shouldn't matter for the Inventory project:
aviationmegastore.co..cm-48050-189686.html
And Bughunter is right - the chassis of this brand are extremely stable.
1 3 July, 09:58
I scrolled back again in your album - you are modified already the mount by the 3D parts! So I'm not sure if the Aerocraft legs will still fit as they are designed for Revell.
Are there any metal enforcements in your 3D printed legs?
1 3 July, 10:10
Thx for the lively discussion, mates. The upgrade which ruined my opinion of metal parts was in fact from Scale Model Conversions. I see there are other options worth considering and the brass upgrade looks actually quite good.
However for this project I will pass and work with what I already started with. The model won't be that heavy despite its size. No, I did not reinforce the legs. They look quite solid and sturdy to me and I take my chances ready to be proven wrong.
2 4 July, 06:15
I have not asked that you drill into the legs 🙂 it was more a question if the legs from Metallic Details are printed hollow so a steel rod will then glued in (like ResKit). But from your answer it looks not like this is the case.
Good luck with this huge bird - I'm sure you will create a beautiful model.
And now I sit back and enjoy the show!
2 4 July, 14:21
Great work 👍
But a Playboy in this already small cockpit? I think it would make it even tighter 😉
1 13 July, 08:33
I have not found a Playboy cover in 1:48 🙁 From ETA are some available in different scales, the smallest is 1:35. Available here: zinnfigur.com/Modell..e-Jahrgang-1969.html
[img1]
1 13 July, 12:07
why you need a decal? you can find the front page of the magazine you want (possible to find them by month) and simply print it in paper. should be fine even normal paper.... (better foto paper, but it is also thicker)
1 13 July, 13:27
This is looking really fine! Love the cockpit details and the seats look really clean! Cheers!!!
1 13 July, 15:23
Yes printing crossed my mind and I actually arready tried many year ago for another project. Turned out very well, but it was 1:12 scale, I am afraid in 1:48 it will be a blurry mess even if you crank up the DPI settings. I'll give it a try anyway, do not want to leave out friend in the back "empty handed"
1 14 July, 08:07
This is going to be awesome. So many detailing, that is a real "investigation" piece.
1 14 July, 09:35
I'm constantly learning new things following your builds - the UHU technique is genius. 👍 I should try this on the next big bird I am building.
1 17 July, 11:05
Hey Alex, I am constantly learning myself. Came up with this idea on the spot..
18 July, 12:52
I glued little pads of expanded rubber (in German "Moosgummi") to my clamps.
1 18 July, 14:04
Gorgeous build so far, sir! I remember wrestling with the old Testors kit back in the day and even the Revell details blow that away but your upgrades take it to a whole new level. Beautiful wheel bays and cockpit, too bad about the fit, but the aftermarket gods must be appeased one way or another...
1 19 July, 01:23
Nice progress—how much of the detail is still visible in the cockpit after gluing the fuselage halves together? Okay, that's why we have this build report for future reference. 🥳
1 19 July, 06:44
Love the new inlet spikes! This are very accurate! I like the way the mod is going to look!!!
1 19 July, 23:04
Based on the text for image 143, perhaps change the project title? I would replace the word "feet" with "Euro." 😛
But I'm a big fan of these material battles - especially when the results look like this. 👍
2 20 July, 07:42
good one, BAT21 😄 "80000 Yen and climbing" would be close to reality at this point...YOLO as the young kids say (is this expression still relevant?)
2 21 July, 08:54
I wouldn't say this phrase around your wife if you're in public. You will be in a heap of trouble. (But yes they do).
1 21 July, 16:56
ha ha ha, any language can be a minefield Alexander, when you are not a native speaker 😛
21 July, 20:53
Wow fantastic looking work on your bird sofar. Thanks for the 'clamps with tac' tip. I'll remember that one. Following
1 21 July, 21:30
LCP is in my toolbox too. It takes some getting used to, but it works like a charm.
1 24 July, 13:40
I've got some, just a no-name brand from a major online retailer. I'll have to give the Tamiya (RIP Mr. Tamiya) version a try.
1 24 July, 14:09
Like already mentioned, you have to be careful with the light. I usually turn off my worplace light leaving the room light on. It is bright enough to see what you are doing without curing the putty. Also close the window blinds/curtains, sunlight exposure cures it also almost instantly.
24 July, 15:06
Modelling in the dark by feeling only. Reminds me of my Army time when we did that with our guns. The mud under our nails was light curing too. So, nothing new under the sun. 😉
24 July, 15:19
You never stop learning! Thanks for the tip with the UV putty! Will search and order right away! 🙂
1 24 July, 15:27
Search "UV resin" on the jungle river named website. You can get a small bottle and UV penlight for about $10. It works great for what Alexander did but also can make clear landing lights, missile seeker windows, vision blocks, etc. It's sandable and can be polished when cured but remains slightly tacky for about ten minutes even after hitting it with the UV.
1 24 July, 17:00
Isn't the resin liquid? The Tamiya LCP has a creamy consistency, making it easier to apply (in the use as putty). But it is not clear, so I guess both have it's usage.
2 24 July, 17:13
UV resin is also a great tool, have been using it for years now. Is also being sold as "UV glue". Not really useful as glue but great for making of all sorts of clear parts, lenses, lights etc. Used it also successfully as putty for small gaps. Tamiyas aforementioned UV putty is something slightly different on the other hand. It behaves like "normal" putty but cures with light, that is the only difference. The UV resin is a clear viscous liquid which you handle differently from the putty and for other purposes. Both are fantastic and underappreciated tools in modeling imho
1 24 July, 17:20
Ah, I thought they were similar. Yes, it's the UV "glue" not the putty. It does dry clear. The nice thing about it is that it does have surface tension so unless it's a really large blob it will stay where you put it and conform to something like a wing landing light recess, for the most part. But, I will have to try the putty version.
24 July, 17:40
This is an investment, not a model 😄
Looking forward to see more of this adventure, thanks for sharing so far. It's great! 👍
1 25 July, 05:49
a.....hobby supply store? 😄 I refuse to believe you can't source it in the good ol' USA of all places
1 25 July, 15:13
Bought mine years ago, but wtf are those prices? The stuff is obscenely expensive oO
1 25 July, 15:16
I agree. I saw the price and thought "Nope, that's not happening". 😄
I'm amazed at your attention to detail in this build. Remarkable!
1 25 July, 16:01
Isn't Light Curing Putty super carcinogenic? If I could afford it I wouldn't trust the stuff enough to buy it.
25 July, 16:23
What are your experiences with this miracle cure regarding adhesion to plastic? Does the filler shrink after a while like other products? And how does it perform when engraved?
At the asking price, this stuff really must work wonders...
2 25 July, 18:06
The Good Ol' US of A has just finished a tariff (trade deal) with Japan this week. Me thinks businesses are waiting for the dust to settle... The one place I found was selling it for $22.00 USD with another $22.00 USD for shipping. That's just about $22.00 too much for me...
25 July, 20:30
BAT21, there is no "miracle cure" in modeling. From what I've seen it hardly shrinks at all. If by "other products" you mean generic 1 component modeling putty aka "Revell Plasto", I haven't used any for at least 15 years, because it is utter crap. I can't tell you anything about engraving, because I do not and never have engraved directly on putty, I always apply a surface primer or filler first.
I wouldn't like to have your buying decision depend on my opinion. I just show what I work with and how it works for me. You have to try for yourself. Yes, asking price is insane, no it does not work wonders, it is simply a putty which cures with light, hence the drying time is almost instant. That is its biggest advantage. Everything else depends on your skills and abilities..
Nichts für Ungut!
2 25 July, 21:26
Skyhiker, I wanted to say if it was carcinogenic they would never allow to sell it but then I remembered the walls of cigarette packs you have in every convenience store and supermarket so that argument is out of the window.
Who knows, it is not a particularly healthy hobby anyway but I'll try not to confuse it with my toothpaste tube again. Where did you get that info from?
2 25 July, 21:36
Thanks Frank (bug hunter) for the help! I have the Tamiya LCP on order!
1 25 July, 23:47
I use instant glue mixed with baby powder. Curing very fast and It won't shrink after curing.
2 26 July, 00:22
Thin CA glue poured on baking soda works quite good, too - but it is not easy to be applied. I use it to fill the gaps and imperfections in resin parts.
1 26 July, 06:38
Nowadays I primarily use super glue for smaller gaps (without baking soda or baby powder but I use an accelerator spray to harden it instantly) and 2 component polyester putty from the hardware store for bigger areas. This light curing putty is used somewhere inbetween where the area is too big for SG and too small for the inconvenience mixing a batch of polyester putty
2 26 July, 06:51
Welcome to the Eduard Fan Club! Such errors are free of charge for club members. 🙂
4 2 August, 22:28
Looks great so far, gonna be one of the best revell sr-71 on the Planet.
1 3 August, 06:53
It will be the best SR-71 in my home, that is all I dare to vouch for 😄
2 3 August, 09:58
bughunter, your wisdom is scary....never would have thought of that 😄😄
1 6 August, 14:48
Album info
Ever since I was a kid this airplane fascinated me. More than 30 years have passed and nothing has changed...



























































































































































































































