Fil démarré par hobbywith.cristian
Cristian Aa ajouté un nouvel album.
70 15 May, 11:35
Michael KohlAnxious about your painting approach and your experience with the masks. Mine was quite sobering.
1 20 July, 07:53
Cristian A AuteurThanks, Cuajete!
@Michael, I have a Plan A and a Plan B.
Plan A is to start with the sand color, mask it off, then apply the brown, mask that off, and finally add the pale green.
If that doesn't work, I'm pretty confident I can hand-brush this one without masks. Even though the real Sufa has sharp paint transitions—which is exactly why I got the masks—I think I can still manage it freehand if needed.
How was your experience with these masks ?
20 July, 08:02
Michael KohlMain trouble was that they didn't conform to the shape all too well - particularly at places where you have protrusions like small inlets and the like. The third color requires to have no gaps between the masks. So you better double check or apply a mask over the contact areas. But maybe you have a smarter approach I can copy for my future builds. I am keen on a step-by-step documentation.
20 July, 08:11
Cristian A AuteurHi Michael, thanks for the derails, I will try to place all masks first in this case and then remove and paint one by one. I'll try to document each step with the masking here. I didn't install all the antennas yet as I'm usually painting them separately for better detail, so that might help.
Hi Matthias, thanks for watching. I don't have the Kinetic kit but I've seen photos and the instruction manual. The Kinetic one seems more detailed from a first look, not sure about the fit but the Hasegawa is excellent from this perspective. What I can tell you from the start that the Hasegawa kit is missing the special Israeli tracking pods and the GBU bombs.
1 20 July, 10:33
CuajeteWell done so far, Cristian 👍
The Kinetic's kit has much more weaponry than the Hasegawa one and is arguably more detailed, but the panel lines appear thicker and the fit is perhaps a little less.
2 20 July, 18:14
Arif SaeedComing along nicely Cristian, I've always thought the Hasegawa tooling had the more accurate Viper shape 👌
1 21 July, 18:47
Cristian A Auteur@Cuajate: Thanks! I've got the GWH F-15I Ra'am in my stash, and it's packed with Israeli weaponry, so it'll be a great source for extra loadout later.
@Arif Saeed, really appreciate it. Yes, the Hasegawa kit is quite detailed—which explains the price. I still think Tamiya makes the best F-16 kit out there.
2 22 July, 08:42
Cristian A AuteurMasks applied. I now understand why some modelers have had issues with the masks — DN Models designed them to work for both the F-16D and F-16I variants. The main difference is that the F-16D does not have conformal fuel tanks (CFTs), so DN Models assumes you'll first build and paint the F-16D version (without the CFTs and dorsal spine). Then, you're expected to paint and mask the CFTs and dorsal spine separately, and attach them at the end to complete the F-16I configuration.
The problem is that the DN Models instructions don't explain this workflow at all. You'll likely only realize this—like I did—once you actually start applying the masks to the model.
4 22 July, 22:28
Jakko > Tried airbrushing Revell enamel (…) it's just not worth the hassle.
I think this is most likely because you're not used to them. Every type of paint has different things to learn, and if you're used to acrylics and lacquers then chances are you'll subconsciously try to do thing that work with them but aren't really appropriate for enamels. I've not sprayed enamels for years (because I don't want to use the solvents anymore) but never had any trouble with adherence when I did. On the other hand, thick lacquers (like Mr. Hobby) give me nothing but grief, so I also reached the conclusion that for me, learning those is more trouble than they're worth 🙂
2 1 August, 11:12
Cristian A AuteurThanks Jakko, that's actually the real issue I had, it wasn't the technique, but the DN masks pulling up the enamel paint when I removed them. The enamel just didn't stick as well as other paints I've used, even with regular masking tape like on the Super Cobra or Su-37, where I had no problems, it seems like the glue on the DN models even if you detape it on your hand likes to stick on the enamel. Also, even with a spray booth, the smell is pretty strong compared to acrylics or lacquers. So for me, it's more about the downsides that make enamels less appealing compared to laquers or Tamiya acrylics.
2 1 August, 13:30
AlexanderI also didn't have problems in my early days with Revell Enamels and Tamiya masking tape. Weird that the DN masks are so different, at least together with enamel paint.
2 1 August, 16:27
DerMattesWas the Enamel already cured or just dry to the touch? Last time I used Enamels was in the 90's with a way too small brush.
2 1 August, 16:38
Jakko @DerMattes may be onto something. Enamels need to dry much longer than acrylics, so if you put tape over the paint after only a few hours or so, it almost certainly isn't dry enough yet. Give it 24 hours at least, and longer than that if you want to apply a wash made with anything that can be used to thin enamel paints.
1 1 August, 17:23
CaptGPFGood recovery on the paint peeling! From my own experience, you can still get peeling with acrylics - at least the Mission Model acrylics I used to use. IMHO, I' e had the best luck with Tamiya, Gunze, AK Real Colors and Hataka - so I stick with them. I used to prime my kits to prevent peeling, but have not had to since I moved away from the Mission Models paints.
I also noticed that some kit manufacturers also differ on how they clean and rinse their molds. Tamiya, Hasegawa and the higher end brands including Arma hobbies doe a great job of washing off the mold release, but Hobby Boss is atrocious - they make good kits with great details, but you need to really wash those sprues!
1 1 August, 19:31
Jakko Mission Models paint is really bad. I had sprayed a model with it, then a few days later I applied a wash made from acrylic paint and water, and that lifted the damned MM paint where the brush I used, rubbed against detail!
Alcohol-based acrylics, like Tamiya X/XF and Mr. Aqueous, need no primer underneath them if you put them onto plastic, but if you use thing water-based acrylics, like Vallejo Model Air, Hatakatatakakatataratatata etc. you'll probably want to use primer first because else you run the risk of the paint beading up in bare plastic.
2 1 August, 20:25
Cristian A Auteur@Matthias and @Jakko, that's a good point, but I left the enamel paint cure for 3 days, I know how slow they are in fully drying. Maybe I should of left it dry even more than that. I always prime first as I like to spot any imperfections before I apply the paint. I also sand the primer gently so I prepare the surface for decals later on, even from this stage.
Thanks CaptGPF, I think that solving problems is part of the process 🙂
2 1 August, 22:45
Ade HillI can't let that go. I don't know how anyone could get VMA to bead on bare plastic. That's just wrong. Anyone who has read my gallery articles will know that I use VMA on most of my projects, mostly just use primer for mixed media, apply decals directly to it, and do extensive OPR over it.
11 August, 16:33
Jakko All I know about that is that it beaded up enough times for me to stop trying … Straight from the bottle, nothing added to thin it, improve flow, etc. onto plastic I had not done anything to — so no cleaning, degreasing, etc.
(What is OPR, BTW?)
11 August, 17:22
Michael Kohloil paint rendering. weathering and color modulation with oils. If I am not mistaken the Michael Rinaldi coined this phrase and promotes it.
2 11 August, 17:27
Łukasz GlińskiSad news, but Revell enamels were always suspicious for me 😄 They seem never to cure completely 🙁
Humbrols and Model Masters were waaaaay better. Still, lacquers are lightyears ahead and there's no way back, at least for me.
Fingers crossed for fixing the camo issue 👍
1 11 August, 19:19
Jakko Very long ago, Revell's paints came out of the Humbrol factory, but they eventually felt they would be able to make them cheaper themselves. From all I've heard, from that point on the quality became noticeably worse.
2 11 August, 20:25
BAT21But the rear antenna covers are very dark? Shouldn't they be the same gray as the radar cover at the front?
26 August, 13:36
Cristian A AuteurHi @Bat21, yes, according to the instructions and several reference photos, it should match the nose cone. In some images, it appears to be a darker gray—possibly due to lighting—but I went with the darker shade as I felt it looked better.
Hi Marlin, thanks, and welcome!
1 26 August, 14:21
Cristian A AuteurThank you gents, glad you like it. I'm sure I can do it better next time with the F-15I considering the lessons learned here.
1 3 September, 11:40